The iconic Adriatic coastline is one of the fastest growing in popularity. With travelers flocking to its tepid turquoise waters, flights and frequency of them is on an upward trend. Anisha Shah beelines to the jewel of the Adriatic, to explore the famed status of Croatia and Montenegro.
CROATIA’S STYLISH DUBROVNIK RIVIERA
One of the most eye-catching coastlines in the Mediterranean, Croatia’s Dubrovnik Riviera is the stuff of travel dreams.
Inspiring poets and playwrights, who’ve coined it ‘Pearl of the Adriatic’ and ‘Paradise on Earth’, the 20km coastal Riviera is a silhouette of dramatic emerald mountains tumbling to inviting bays on the royal-blue Adriatic Sea. Coupled with iconic Dubrovnik Old Town, one of the most photographed medieval walled cities and Unesco world heritage site, the region offers an alluring beach and city combo. And the traveller’s growing love affair with Croatia is affirming it as a highlight of Europe.
The coastal Riviera route is one of Europe’s most visually stunning drives, along a snaking road carved high in the mountainside. Unrivalled views unfurl of the Adriatic Sea studded with myriad of Croatia’s offshore islands, easily visited on day trips and popular with A-listers.
Croatia’s southernmost stretch basks in 260 days of balmy sunshine, adding to its booming popularity, matched by increased flights this summer. With a lineup of buzzing festivals, concerts and carnival, here are the ‘Top 12 Reasons To Visit the stylish Dubrovnik Riviera.
1. MEDIEVAL DUBROVNIK
The largest and best preserved in Europe, Dubrovnik’s 14th century city walls are nearly 2km long and 22m high. Circumnavigate the chunky walls for photogenic views across the terracotta-tops of the magazine-cover Old Town.
Jutting out on a fortified island, suspended at sea, Dubrovnik Old Town is the unmistakable icon of Croatia. Oozing timelessness, graceful Baroque churches rub regal shoulders with centuries-old monasteries and noble palazzo. The Mediterranean colors delight: sea of red roofs shrouds whitewashed buildings, fringed by the azure Adriatic. Like a living breathing museum, the city flaunts a rich artistic history, whilst café culture spills into the streets. History meets modernity in this epicenter.
2. MOUNT SRD CABLE CAR
Arguably the best view on the Dubrovnik Riviera. A short revolving cable car ride to Mount Srd reaches 412m elevation. Srd mountain backs the Old Town, affording dreamy Dubrovnik views, laid out like a map below. On a clear day, you can see the hills of neighboring Montenegro, and silhouette of surrounding islands. The clifftop Napoleonic Imperial Fort museum showcases footage of the siege. For a romantic treat, head up at sunset for best of both day and night views, before a delicious dinner at the intimate glass-encased Panorama restaurant. It’s a magical spot, floating above the city at dusk, as lights burn bright along the bays below.
3. DUBROVNIK CARNIVAL AND SUMMER FESTIVAL
Every July and August, outdoor piazzas become open-air platforms for the Dubrovnik Summer Festival (dubrovnik-festival.hr). The oldest cultural festival in Croatia is a mandate of theatre, ballet, classical music, opera and dancing in the streets. In February, Dubrovnik mirrors Venice with a 5-week medieval carnival (tzdubrovnik.hr). Transforming shimmering marble streets into a parade of masked balls, the antique setting is a literal sway into a bygone era. Wine and jazz lovers will delight in the coveted Wine & Jazz festival during the more tranquil month of September. (dubrovnikwinejazz.com)
4. SCENIC COASTLINE
One of Europe’s most attractive drives is the 20km Dubrovnik to Cavtat coastal route. The wondrous mountaintop way filters through lush vineyards, with exits to quaint waterfront villages. Each has it’s own authenticity, with antique churches and forested headlands, beach boats, cafes and walks, spanning the fairytale Riviera region.
Slip into charming coastal resorts Cavtat, Mlini and Srebreno, away from the bustle of Dubrovnik.
Drop off the radar at lovingly-restored Plat and Mlini, with isolated beaches and dense greenery. Cavtat is charmingly Croatian and sprinkled with famous faces, from Roman Abramovich to Liz Taylor. The picturesque harbor hems in a necklace of bays and a town pillar to post with Roman ruins, galleries and gourmet seafood.
5. GAME OF THRONES TOUR
Dubrovnik walled city hosts a raft of filming locations used in TV series, Game of Thrones. It served as the setting of King’s Landing, capital of the Seven Kingdoms. A unique 3-hour walking tour takes in highlights such as the scene of battles such as Stannis Baratheon’s Battle of the Blackwater. For those unfamiliar with the show, this is a fun alternative tour, weaving through the region.
6. SUITE DREAMS
Boutique villas are to Dubrovnik what Riads are to Marrakech. Often converted private residences, the whitewashed villas blend seamlessly into the landscape, offering every luxury in intimate surrounds. With infinity pool, private beach, Villa spa and sizzling suites equipped with Jacuzzi hot tubs overhanging the Adriatic Sea, ‘Villa Dubrovnik’ is discrete local luxury at it’s finest.
Fresh from a facelift, the design-led ‘Leading Hotels of the World’ property affords sensational views of the Old Town from the sultry rooftop Prosciutto and wine bar, the chicest spot in town.
Suites are minimalist design and tech-savvy, flaunting top-to-toe views of Lokrum Island. Fashionistas can live out Hollywood dreams aboard the stylish vaporetto speedboat, for glamorous transfers to the Old Town.
7. SAMPLE CROATIAN WINES
Croatia may not be a name synonymous with wine, but it should be. With wine-producing history dating back to around 2200BC, the industry flourished under the Greeks but was disrupted by the Ottoman invasion. The business of wine picked up again in 2010 with the creation of the Association of Croatian Wineries. 64 indigenous grape varieties produce firm favorites Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. Nearly 1000 wineries scatter rural Croatia. I learn more in a wine-tasting session at Villa Dubrovnik, where Food and Beverage Manager, Tonci Nola, introduces the region’s best.
"Posip is the famous white wine from Korcula Island. A heavier option is the strong and bold-flavored Kuća Glavić from this Dubrovnik Riviera. Red-wine lovers should opt for Tribidrag, from the far North, for it’s powerful, full-bodied finish."
Autumn is when the vineyards come alive and can be visited from the Dubrovnik Riviera.
8. DINE WITH A VIEW
Whether it’s waterfront or clifftop, the views are unparalleled at the distinctly Croatian Nautika. ‘Panorama’ is an intimate casual affair atop Mount Srd, at the pinnacle of the cable car. Indulge in local cheesecakes and sautéed fish with a postcard view of the Old Town. Flagship ‘Nautika,’ acclaimed as top 10 world’s most romantic restaurants, sits on a waterfront cliff edging the fortresses. Chef Mario Bunda carefully crafts flavors of the Mediterranean. Best of local includes lobster from the Dalmatian island of Vis and shrimp from the Adriatic. Housed in the former Dubrovnik School of Maritime Studies, links to seafaring are historic.
Further along the Riviera, in Cavtat, explore the line-up of harbor-front restaurants serving typically Croatian lamb chops and baked octopus slow-cooked ‘under the bell.’
9. ISLAND-HOP
With more than a thousand Croatian islands, the question is where? Slice the silky Adriatic waters aboard anything from kayaks to sailboats.
Lokrum Island is easily accessed from Dubrovnik and is known for it’s ‘Dead Sea’ salty lake, 12th century Benedictine monastery and resident peacocks.
Pristine beaches and picturesque harbors are striking at peninsula-perched, former-Venetian, Korcula, bordered by rolling hills and hidden coves.
Adventure-lovers will find bliss at Mljet, accessible by boat from Dubrovnik harbor. Mljet National Park spans 3,100 hectares, with lakes and indigenous forests. With wreck sites for divers and hiking trails weaving through greenery, it is an explorer’s treasure trove. The Elaphiti Islands, scattered like pearls in the Adriatic, are a ferry ride away.
10. CAVE BEACH
Betina Cave Beach is only accessible by swimming from a boat, kayak, or from land. It is a unique hidden wonder of the world. In the heat of summer, the cave provides a cool shelter, with pebble sands lapped by turquoise Mediterranean waters. It’s a pinch-yourself miracle, special to the Dubrovnik Riviera.
11. CLIFF BARS
Drink in unparalleled views at ‘hole-in-the-wall’ bars, a specialty of the Dubrovnik Riviera. Clinging to a cliff and suspended over the sea, Buza Bar is legendary. The location provides locals with respite from the thick city walls, and as such is a great spot to mingle with locals. Sunsets are a magnificent spectacle, with the Adriatic Sea laid out in a sparkling blue cloak. There are no signs, so finding the spot is half the fun.
12. MONTENEGRO AND BOSNIA & HERZEGOVINA
Both neighboring countries are easily accessible on day trips, with scenic drives anywhere from 2 hours from Dubrovnik.
The fjords and mountains of Montenegro are a stone’s throw from Dubrovnik Riviera, with the coastal road leading straight in to the world-famous Unesco World Heritage Site, Bay of Kotor. Dotted with tiny stone fishing villages and ornate homes, churches and islands, this is an unforgettable day trip into the deeply-indented Adriatic.
The border of Bosnia & Herzegovina lies inland. Popular day trips include Mostar, for the iconic Stari Most, a World Heritage 14th century bridge. Explore the cobbled bazaar, photograph ornate wooden balconies and climb the towering minarets of a mosque for 360 city views, all in a day’s drive from Dubrovnik.
Clean air and crystal clear waters are trademarks of the ethereal Balkan state of Montenegro. The country makes a habit of stunning visitors with intense natural beauty. Jagged jade peaks decant terracotta-red rooftops into the sparkling emerald Adriatic Sea, affectionately coined Europe’s southernmost fjord. The rugged silhouette hems in a deeply-indented coastline, responsible for spawning a maritime legacy of world-class seamen, credited with putting Montenegro on the map, from Yugoslavia’s first world circumnavigator to notorious pirates.
Visitors are lured to the coastal necklace of blonde beaches studded with stone fishing villages, glitzy marinas and buzzing maritime towns. Surviving off the sea, Montenegro’s maritime and naval legacy pumps the veins of this nation, affording it an affluent past and promising future.
Trace the twists and turns of a beguiling maritime trail, to uncover chocolate-box scenes and legendary tales of coastal Montenegro, bearing visible Venetian and Ottoman legacies. Join mesmerizing sacred sea festivals in summer, to witness the celebrated relationship between Montenegro and the sea. Through it all, marvel at the echoing sentiment of Lord Byron, ‘at the birth of our planet, the most beautiful encounter between the land and the sea must have happened at the coast of Montenegro.’
COAST THE SCENIC SHORES
Tracing the serpentine coast from ‘Boka,’ the richly romantic Unesco Bay of Kotor, to Ulcinj, the southernmost mosque-studded beach town, exposes flecks of quaint fishing villages flanked by stone villas and little boats.
It doesn’t go unnoticed that Montenegrin men live up to their renown as the tallest in Europe. Matched by advanced seafaring skills, on the world stage, many live off the sea, from expert fishermen to captains of naval fleets and cruise liners. The Adriatic has long been ally to local livelihoods.
Sampling fresh seafood is essential on coastal road-trips. Galion restaurant serves upscale seafood on a pontoon. Squid-ink risotto, seafood bouillabaisse and monkfish dishes are washed down with Montenegro’s best wine. Traditional fare at the peaceful ‘Stari Mlini,’ a 300-year-old mill, includes stews and lamb baked in ash with potatoes.
Weaving through the meandering fingers and unfurling nooks of the Bay of Kotor, epic coastal hinterland scenery is reminiscent of a small-scale Canadian Rockies or New Zealand Milford Sound. Hit the waters by paddle-board, kayak, boat and ferry. Boat trips depart regularly from the Bay of Kotor between ancient maritime villages, of which Perast, Kotor and Prcanj are noteworthy.
Reflecting recent growth in tourism, this historic maritime region caters marvelously to visitors. Yet, authenticity remains, handsomely prized in medieval and Baroque stone buildings, grand palazzos, ancient churches, forts, maritime relics and naval legends, all owing to centuries of former Venetian rule, whilst staving off advances by Turkish Ottomans.
The Ottomans did grapple control of the southern town of Ulcinj, giving it today’s Eastern oriental feel, in stark contrast to Venetian Boka Bay. Ulcinj gained repute as a formidable pirate lair, evoking tales worthy of a Hollywood blockbuster. Today, the town is loaded with maritime memoirs, amidst a predominant Islamic and Albanian community. Presiding over the town, the former lighthouse ‘Sailor’s Mosque,’ commemorates Ulcinj sailors, with sumptuous views to sea.
Islamic Ulcinj bears the most beautiful breadths of beach in Montenegro, including, surprisingly, one where you can bare-it-all, against a skyline of minarets and floating calls to prayer. On the water’s surface, deep-sea fishing is a popular activity. Below it, diving enthusiasts will delight in offshore sunken cities and ancient shipwrecks, destroyed by the deadly nest of patrolling pirates. Booming piracy birthed a thriving slave trade across 100 houses in town, with the main square acting as the slave market. Absorb this history on a stroll through the old town.
WHERE EAST MEETS WEST
As Venice took control of Kotor from 1420-1797, the maritime shipping and trade thrived, keeping Montenegro afloat. Delve into the ‘Maritime Museum of Montenegro,’ housed inside an 18th century palazzo in Kotor’s Unesco-inscribed walled Old Town. Naval instruments, paintings, adorned weapons and model ships fill one of the most comprehensive museums on the Adriatic coast. Positioned at the Square of Boka Marine, the initial collection was founded by the "Boka Marine" seafaring fraternity, of which J.B. Tito was an honorary admiral. The guild is credited with patriotically guarding ancient traditions, best highlighted during Boka Navy Day celebrations every 26th June. Traditionally-robed sailors are given the flag and keys of Kotor, after performing a dance. It dates back to 1420, when the dance was performed before the Patron of Kotor, Saint Trifun, by sailors from Asia Minor.
Kotor is a literal showcase of crumbling churches and Venetian-inspired architecture, wallowing in Baroque palazzos of wealthy seamen, dotted along the seaboard.
Few kilometers north sits the eye-catching picture-postcard Venetian stone town of Perast, once the seafaring capital of the Adriatic. 19 palazzos bear silent witness to its former prosperity, particularly during the 17th-18th Century. Bronza Palace and Kolovic Palace are striking visitor-friendly waterfront properties, belonging to renowned factions of wealthy sea merchants.
But the highlight of Perast floats offshore, where eyes fall upon two iconic islands: the 9th century St. George Benedictine abbey and the man-made 15th century ‘Our Lady of the Rocks’ church. It’s believed the latter was erected by locals depositing stones around a mythical rock apparition of the Madonna and Child. Boats transfer visitors frequently from across the Bay.
Time a visit with the spellbinding "Fašinada" festival on 22nd July, when the people of Perast row across on boats, dropping stones into the sea around Our Lady of the Rocks, symbolically reinforcing it. It’s followed by a vibrant regatta of Boka sailboats, marking Perast’s seafaring and navigational histoire.
If there’s a sweet scent lingering in the air, it could be the famous ‘bobi,’ a traditional fried sweet, or Perast’s famous almond cake, worth a nibble.
Of all the former seamen settlements, which became prominent ports of maritime trade, Prcanj is celebrated as home to Ivo Visin, the first former Yugoslavia captain to successfully circumnavigate the globe in the 1850’s, in his ship, ‘Splendido,’ on royal order of the Habsburg monarchy. His commemorative trophy adorns the palm-clad ‘Birth of Our Lady’ church, which took 120 years to build.
Countless more miniature fishing villages and traditional communities comb the shores of Kotor. Combined with local architecture, heritage and annual festivals, it is a cultural landscape of outstanding and universal value.
SUPERYACHT LIFESTYLE & PLAYGROUND
The youngest town on the block is the showy newcomer and starkest contrast to the ancient fishing villages of the Bay of Kotor. Welcome to Tivat, the region’s game-changer. Positioned at the foot of Mount Vrac, on a sunny peninsula, Tivat was once a hub of salt manufacturing, later housing Austria’s naval arsenal late-19th century. The strategic position bequeathed Tivat a key role in the successive sailor rebellion. Today, it hosts 2 international airports and is undergoing a renaissance as a major superyacht marina and jetset lifestyle. Porto Montenegro is a hub of burgeoning tourism, foreign investment, a bustling nautical community and international scene.
The deep-water harbor is flanked by luxury properties, a yacht club and the effortlessly regal Regent Hotel. Soak in the high-end ambiance with coffee and cake on the harbor before visiting the Naval Heritage Collection Museum, pinpointed by its star attraction, a P821 submarine. The beaches are havens of watersport and shallow-water paddling.
Tivat’s current facelift continues it’s former persona as the summer residence of Kotor aristocracy. At the 500-year-old fortified Buka family museum, the region’s powerful fishing heritage is displayed. In summer, the grounds host outdoor theatre and concerts.
