Issue 30, August 2018

Seville is a quintessentially Spanish city that loses none of its local charm and beauty to modern living
With its beauty, folklore and history, Seville is one of Spain’s most atmospheric cities – one that is easy to love.
From the horse-drawn carriages to the magnificent architectural marvels and orange tree-lined streets, the city is full of beautiful corners to explore.
But while history is omnipresent, Seville is as much about the here-and-now as it is the past. It is a city full of charm, passion and vitality, culminating in flamenco dances and indulgent evenings filled with tapas and wine. The Sevillanos have long ago mastered the art of celebration, and the city’s great annual festivals, notably the Semana Santa and Feria de Abril, are amongst Spain’s most famed.
Rooted in tradition but with a modern edge, life in Seville means never getting bored of its immense loveliness, excitement and inspiration. It is a city full of wonders.
Architectural splendour
From Roman ruins to magnificent Moorish monuments and modern masterpieces, the Andalusian capital oozes historic and artistic heritage. Built over Roman ruins, there is something wonderful about a city’s ability to integrate the past and present, something Seville does so expertly.
Its historic centre – one of the most extensive in Europe – presided over by a colossal Gothic cathedral, is an intoxicating mix of resplendent Mudéjar palaces, Baroque churches, aristocratic mansions and winding medieval lanes. Exceptionally photogenic, Seville has provided the setting for a number of films, including Lawrence of Arabia, The Kingdom of Heaven, Star Wars and Game of Thrones.
A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Seville’s iconic cathedral is breathtaking in its scale and majesty. The third-largest church in the world and the largest Gothic church, it was built between 1401 and 1506 on the remains of what had been the city’s main mosque. It has an eclectic and lavish mix of Mudéjar, Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque and Neoclassical styles.
The structure consists of five impressive naves, 80 side chapels and the famous Giralda – the cathedral’s mighty bell tower that incorporates the mosque’s original minaret. Some of the most notable pieces include the central nave that rises 42 metres, the incredible gold altarpiece – a supreme masterpiece by craftsman Fleming Pieter Dancart – and the splendid Sacristía Mayor that houses silver reliquaries, a collection of skulls and works by Goya, Murillo and Zurbarán. It also boasts the monumental tomb of Christopher Columbus.

Considered to be one of the most outstanding examples of Mudéjar architecture in existence, Seville’s UNESCO-listed Alcázar Palace complex is a breathtaking spectacle. Built over a 100-year span, it was the original home to numerous Moorish monarchs and later the home of Spanish kings. Here one may admire exquisite ceramic tiles, outstanding plasterwork, elaborate golden wood ceilings and marvellous gardens with fountains, flowers, a maze and secret romantic retreats.
Designed especially for the 1929 Ibero-American Exposition, Seville’s iconic Plaza de España is a Spanish architectural triumph with Art Deco, Mudéjar and Renaissance Revival influences. Imposing and spectacular, the square is surrounded by overwhelmingly beautiful buildings and charmingly adorned with scenic bridges and intricate tile alcoves that represent Spain’s provinces. Boating may be enjoyed on the moat that is spanned by four bridges representing the ancient kingdoms of Spain.
While Seville’s historic splendour is evident, the city’s modern architectural influences offer a beautiful contrast. The best example of modern architecture is the Metropol Parasol, also known locally as Las Setas (the mushrooms) because of its distinctive shape. It is a vast wooden structure with undulating curves – one of the largest timber structures in the world – that looks like a series of mushrooms with its fungi-shaped canopies. With carefully excavated Roman remains to explore beneath, the 5-storey monument houses a museum, market, restaurants, bar, event area, walkways and an amazing viewpoint that provides unbeatable panoramic views of Seville from its 28.5-metre-high vantage point.
There is no doubt that the city is filled with must-see monuments and buildings, but soaking up the delightful local atmosphere is equally enjoyable and fulfilling. This is best done at one of the innumerable blissful squares that may be found tucked away under orange trees or decorated with a trickling fountain.
Charming neighbourhoods
Seville boasts some of the most enchanting neighbourhoods of any city in Europe. The lovely neighbourhoods have it all: great historical monuments, the city’s most delightful streets and squares, colourful markets, tranquil parks and amazing tapas establishments.
The impossibly picturesque old Jewish neighbourhood of Santa Cruz is one of the city’s most iconic barrios. With an almost fairytale allure and quiet elegant beauty, this colourful and characterful centre of historic Seville has not lost the small-town atmosphere that has defined it for centuries. In a maze of winding cobbled streets it is a joy to discover the orange-and-white-fronted houses, flower-festooned balconies, romantic squares and beautiful, hidden corners.
Barrio Santa Cruz is also where one will find some of the city’s best tapas bars and flamenco clubs. Wandering through the maze of streets is absolutely one of the most enjoyable activities in Seville – each street is filled with new discoveries.
As one of Seville’s most emblematic and soulful neighbourhoods, Triana’s past is littered with stories of fishermen, ceramicists, matadors, flamenco singers and Roman rebels. Having kept many of its charming centuries-old qualities, much of the neighbourhood’s beauty lies in its atmosphere. Lovely ceramics adorn the attractive buildings and strains of flamenco drift from open windows. The Mercado de Triana is a joyfully chaotic interpretation of local life.

From its pretty, myth-rich streets have come some of the most influential flamenco artists and bullfighters of the last couple of centuries. They include the legendary Juan Belmonte, one of the greatest matadors in the history of bullfighting. The quaint streets are lined with old-style tapas bars, the walls of which are often plastered with faded bullfighting posters and photos of flamenco artists.
With a certain bohemian air, La Macarena and its component parts of La Alameda de Hércules, San Julian, Calle Feria, Pelicano, Jardines del Valle and Ponce de Leon, is one of Seville’s hippest and trendiest barrios. It is home to funky art gallery cafés, chic bars, vintage boutiques, gastro bars and modern fusion eateries. With a fun vibe, the neighbourhood also enjoys a vibrant nightlife.
El Arenal is a smart, upscale residential district worth considering when relocating to Seville. It is an area brimming with life and colour, with culture and tradition, opera and theatre, bars and tapas tavernas, bullfights, flamencos and fiestas.
The hipster haven of Alfalfa is central, cool and affluent. Alfalfa is the best part of Seville for those looking for an upscale, hip vibe that is beautiful, historical and central. It is bursting with character – a harmonious mix of tiny traditional shops next to trendy new bakeries and innovative eateries.
One of the largest and best connected parts of Seville, Los Remedios is an area of wide, straight avenues and large blocks of modern flats. The purpose-built residential district is popular with many expats.
A bustling culinary scene
Seville is amongst Spain’s best food cities. Here social life revolves around food. Whether one is seeking classic tapas bars decorated with azulejos (colourful tiles) or modern cuisine in a stylish and hip environment, Seville never fails.
With more than 4,000 tapas bars, the self-proclaimed tapas capital of the world has so much to offer a food lover. One could live here for years and still have more to discover. From authentic hole-in-the-wall abacerías (tiny grocery stores that often serve wine, cheese and charcuterie), to traditional tapas bars, to some of Spain’s most inventive gastro bars, Seville is a city that offers an unbeatable variety.
It is blessed with fresh local produce: the finest jamón Iberico de bellota (acorn-fed Iberian ham), fresh seafood from the nearby costas, and fruit and vegetables grown in the area around the city and farther afield in Andalusia. The hot sun ripens fruits, including the delicious oranges and lemons that hang from the trees everywhere in Seville.
The city boasts a good number of neighbourhood markets where the locals come to chat, gossip and get the freshest produce. The markets also afford some of the most interesting spots to eat in Seville.

A joyful cacophony of produce, the Mercado de Triana has the charm and authenticity of the most famous neighbourhood in Seville. Built over the remains of the Castillo de San Jorge, there is something special about this beautiful Spanish market. From fresh fruits and vegetables to booths specialising in oysters, spices, cheese and even snails, the Triana market is well worth a visit. It also boasts an oyster and sushi bar and a microbrewery that highlights Seville’s burgeoning craft beer scene.
Mercado de Feria is a true treasure, hidden away toward the end of one of the most colourful streets in the city. It is the oldest market in Seville, founded in 1719, and the kind of place Sevillanos in the know go to shop for the choicest fruits, freshest fish and cuts of meat. In the huge fish hall, one can buy anything from cockles and langoustine to tuna and octopus. On a small terrace, next to the adjacent medieval stone church, one of the city’s best fish bars offers a huge range of grilled market produce. Join the many locals on the terrace and enjoy superb vieiras (scallops), ortiguillas (sea anemones), boquerones (anchovies) or acedias (baby sole), all at excellent prices.
Located at the base of Metropol Parasol, Mercado de la Encarnacion is one of the best food markets in Seville. Browse the fresh produce or sample fresh meats and cheeses from the surrounding areas.
There are few better places to take the pulse of Sevillano life than the Mercado Lonja del Barranco, a stylish food market on the lush banks of the Guadalquivir. The market is an example of the gastronomic boom that Spanish cuisine is experiencing. The food is inventive, modern and varied. The beautiful riverside glass and iron building has retained its striking original cast steel exteriors designed by the popular French engineer, Gustave Eiffel, in 1883. The last word in modernity at the time of its opening, the former fish market has been revamped using a pleasant off-white colour scheme with contemporary lighting, high ceilings and glass walls. Lonja is particularly enjoyable on warm days when the socialising spills out onto riverbank terraces.
Seville also invites to sip some iconic local wines. The city is a short distance from the Jerez area, the place where authentic sherry originates. A dry Fino or Manzanilla are the perfect complement to salty fried almonds, jamón Iberico and other traditional tapas foods.
Orange wine (vino de naranja) is another Sevillano specialty. It is a sweet fortified wine, but the bitterness from the orange peel that it is infused with makes it delicious. Best served chilled with cured cheese.
Sweet and aromatic vermouth is a favourite aperitif with older Spaniards and is making a huge comeback. Drink it with salty snacks such as cured meats for an incredible pre-dinner flavour hit.
An action-packed artistic and cultural calendar
Famed for its cultural traditions such as fiery flamenco dancing, great concerts, fine art exhibitions and an assortment of festivals throughout the year, Seville offers a wealth of artistic and cultural activities. There is always something new to experience.

In Seville, music is everywhere and above all engages everyone. It has an eclectic music scene with all kind of genres: from symphonies, operas and jazz to zarzuela (Spanish light opera), rock, hip-hop, electronic and pop. In 2006 Seville was chosen by UNESCO as its first Creative City of Music.
The city hosts many music events such as the Festival of Ancient Music, the European Big Bang Jazz Festival, the Swing Festival and the Interstellar Festival.
Seville’s legendary flamenco dance scene is one of the many draws to the city. It is a staple of the city’s vibrant culture and one of the most beautiful and evocative traditions to be enjoyed. Many famous artists amongst cantaores, bailaores and guitarists come from Seville.
Experience the passion, intensity and artistry of an authentic flamenco show. From the small traditional clubs called penas found in the city’s backstreets, to the tablaos (from the word meaning dance floor but today used to describe a restaurant with a dance show) and the large theatres, after-dark Seville sizzles with flamenco. Some of the most important flamenco festivals and events – such as the Bienal de Flamenco, the most important in the world – take place in Seville.
With UNESCO listing flamenco as an Intangible Cultural Heritage (culturally important traditions, practices and rituals) in 2010, Seville continues to stand at the vanguard of this vital and precious art.
Seville also hosts many extravagant fiestas during the year, including the celebrated spring festivals.
Holy Week (Semana Santa de Sevilla), the week preceding Easter Sunday, is the most iconic and important religious festival in the city. No festival in Europe displays its degree of sustained intensity and spectacle. There is no time to pause for the entire week. About 60 religious confraternities carry their paso or ornate float that bears images of the Virgin or Jesus Christ through the streets from their parish church to the cathedral and back.
The other legendary fiesta is the Feria de Abril, which is deeply rooted in the very identity of the city and represents a unique opportunity to experience the lifestyle and traditions of Andalusia. The week-long celebration starts two weeks after Holy Week ends. It is a time when people don their traditional clothing, ride in carriages whilst flower decorations and flamenco musicians help to set the stage. It is an atmosphere of great excitement with the chief activities taking place at the Recinto Ferial fairgrounds. This is a week of serious, round-the-clock, dancing, drinking, eating and socialising.
The city has a great cinematic tradition and has served as the set for various film productions. The annual Seville European Film Festival is dedicated to European film culture and has been honoured by visits from such figures as Milos Forman, Ben Kingsley, Kenneth Branagh and Colin Farrell, to name a few. The city will host the European Film Awards for 2018.
With its rich artistic heritage, it is not surprising that Seville has a number of art museums and galleries under the auspices of the city authorities.
One of the most prestigious of all Spain’s fine arts museums, the Museo de Bellas Artes is one of the most beautiful in Europe. The influential collection of Spanish artists is second only to that in the Prado, and includes works by Velázquez, Murillo (both born in the city), El Greco, Valdés Leal and Zurbarán amongst many others. The museum often holds temporary exhibitions, as well as displaying individual paintings lent by other museums for limited periods of time. The building itself is very impressive, as it was originally an early 17th-century convent. It features cloistered courtyards and hedged gardens, and offers a peaceful, atmospheric retreat from the city.

Amongst Seville museums, Centro Andaluz de Arte Contemporáneo (CAAC) stands out for being the city’s museum of modern art. Located in a magnificent 15th-century monastery that was turned into a ceramic factory in the 19th century, the CAAC has a wonderful setting where old classic architecture blends with modern masterpieces. Its permanent collection is mostly from 20th-century Andalusian artists, including sculptures and installations outside in the garden and grounds, whilst temporary exhibitions offer paintings, photographs, installations and performance art from international artists.
A fascinating gallery in Seville, La Caja China focuses on surrealist and abstract works by a variety of artists. Prominent people who have featured in the gallery include Pepe Barragán, Gloria Rodríguez, Manuel Salinas, Manuel Barbadillo and Ruth Morán.
This year, Seville celebrates the Year of Murillo, a new initiative celebrating the 400th anniversary of Baroque icon Bartolome Esteban Murillo, with various events and exhibitions taking place throughout the year.
Great public transportation options, walkable and bicycle-friendly
Seville’s centre is largely pedestrianised and flat, making it extremely walkable.
Level terrain and a network of 170 kilometres of cycle lanes have made Seville one of the most bike-friendly cities in Europe. The SEVici, Seville’s excellent rent-a-bike system, operated by the Seville City Hall, has revolutionised inner-city commuting for locals and visitors alike since being launched in 2007. With 2,500 bicycles available from 250 stations across the city, there is always a city bike nearby.
Seville has an extensive and efficient system of public transportation including buses, underground system, tram service and light rail that allows access to areas slightly farther out.
The most comfortable and time-efficient means of getting from Seville to other main cities in Spain is by high-speed train – AVE as it is known in Spain. Santa Justa Train Station is the work of the renowned Seville architects, Cruz y Ortiz. The terminal is a 15-minute walk from the city centre.
By road, the A49 connects Seville to Huelva and Portugal; the A92 goes to Malaga and Granada; the A4 to Cordoba and Madrid. As well, the A66 goes to Extremadura and the North. The SE30, the Ronda Super Norte and the SE40 bypass Seville.
Seville Airport is the sixth busiest on mainland Spain and can handle six million passengers. It serves 45 European and international destinations, primarily to North Africa.
Beautiful green spaces
An inherently green city, Seville has some of the most beautiful urban parks in Europe. It is near the top amongst European centres in terms of green space per capita.
The green areas are an integral part of living in Seville and goes beyond being just parkland. These are living spaces, full of culture and history and, above all, afford a wonderful way to explore the city and become acquainted with its customs.

As the city prepared to host the Ibero-American Exposition of 1929, the southern portion of Seville underwent an extensive facelift. At the heart of this redevelopment was the Parque de María Luisa, a stunning botanical garden and Seville’s prettiest area of greenery. The main attraction is the Plaza de España, a breathtaking display of architecture. But there is far more. It is a beautiful place to stroll, with hundreds of exotic trees, plus doves, parrots, ducks and swans on display. Embrace the Spanish way of life and appreciate a leisurely paseo along the banks of the Guadalquivir, or stroll along the winding paths and covered walkways and discover a whole host of ornately decorated squares, tiled fountains, ponds and a natural environment with many species of plants and flowers.
Behind the wonder that is the Alcázar in the historic centre of the city lies the Alcázar Gardens, amongst the most beautiful in Seville. A true haven of peace and serenity, it is a magnificent mosaic of gardens of Arab, modern and Renaissance influences. It is a great natural wealth in the heart of Seville, a collection of several gardens with a variety of names and styles. These gardens, adorned with fountains and pavilions, provide shelter from the hustle and bustle of Seville. Become delightfully lost in them any day, or attend any of the wonderful summer concerts as a part of the series, Nights in the Gardens of the Alcázar.
Located in the historic city centre of Seville, Alameda de Hercules is one of the oldest public gardens in Europe. The main pathway through the gardens, Paseo de la Alameda de Hercules, a now-dry former branch of the Guadalquivir River, is lined with marvellous orange and pine trees and is festooned with fountains.
Located beside the gardens of the Alcázar Palace, the Jardines de Murillo are another greenery gem in Seville. Known to many for its rare trees and palms that shade the stunning ceramic benches and artwork on the walls and fountains, the gardens provide an enlightening and peaceful escape from the city. The gardens are named in honour of renowned Sevillano artist Bartolomé Esteban Murillo, who was born in a house nearby.
Alamillo Park is a vast greenspace across the Alamillo Bridge that allows an escape outside of the city. The park is perfect for a picnic or sunny day lounging with family and friends, as there is also a lot of space for activities, from sports to running and strolling. With two beautiful lakes and plenty of open space, it is one of the many favourite parks in Seville.
Parque de Miraflores, Seville’s largest, does not disappoint when it comes to the diversity of its vegetation. From Japanese plum trees to sprawling mulberry trees, wandering the park when they are in bloom is an absolute treat. It is the perfect place for a jog, with groups seen circling the central lake on a daily basis. The park hosts an annual 10-kilometre race. It also boasts a natural lake and a skate park.

Jardin Americano is one of a kind in Spain, filled with species introduced from America. The Guadalquivir River runs next to the gardens and there are beautiful walkways and cycle routes amongst the stunning vegetation and ornate squares. Strolling by the river on a sunny day is a favourite Seville activity.
International schools and first-class universities
Schools specialising in Spanish and international curricula are available in Seville. Spain’s international schools are highly regarded and usually employ experienced international teachers. The most common international schools, where some locals also send their children, are British, German, and French schools
Some of the most popular schools include Europa International, Colegio Alemán Alberto Durero, Colegio Buen Pastor, College San Francisco de Paula, Lycée Français de Séville, Colegio Británico St. George Internacional, and CBS, The British School of Seville.
Seville is home to three public universities: the University of Seville, the Pablo de Olavide University and International University of Andalusia.
Founded in 1505, the University of Seville is one of the top-ranked in Spain. It boasts the European Certificate of Quality for the EFQM model of Excellence, and distinction as a Campus of International Excellence.
Wonderful climate
Seville has a lovely subtropical Mediterranean climate and year-round sunshine. The weather is generally consistent year-round, with an average annual temperature of 18 to 20ºC. Over 300 days of sunshine per year guarantees that residents may enjoy outdoor pursuits any time of the year.
The hottest temperatures come in July and August, with an average of 28°C and highs hitting 36°C. On occasion, the temperatures reach beyond 40, which is why most Sevillanos leave the city in mid-summer, whilst those who remain live for the siesta.
Friendly, sociable locals in a city with a charismatic atmosphere
Sevillanos are passionate, friendly and gregarious and they are the ones who make the city so special. Proud, vibrant and divinely Spanish, they are masters of the art of celebrating and know how to enjoy life.
Sevillanos are some of the most cheerful people in all of Spain and are fiercely loyal to their cultural traditions. An eclectic blend of artists, writers, bohemians, hipsters, musicians, dancers and professionals, they are proud of their rich heritage and their city.
Although it is a large city of 803,000, making it the fourth largest in Spain, Seville maintains the quintessential charms of a small town and offers expats and residents a slower pace of life than many other European centres.
Well-regarded healthcare
Spain is known for one of the world’s best healthcare systems, and Seville is no exception. Hospital Universitario Virgen del Rocío is one of the best teaching hospitals in Spain and a major centre for pioneering surgery, maternity, organ donation and cancer treatment.
Seville real estate market offers a wide range of properties for sale
There is a wide range of properties for sale in Seville and the surrounding areas, including beautiful city apartments and stately homes and penthouses with spectacular views, luxury villas in gated communities with access control, and large country estates and equestrian properties nearby.
As one of the most liveable cities of Europe, buying property in Seville makes absolute sense.
Explore properties for sale in Sevile in THE ADDRESS Magazine.
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